Men's fashion tips | how to suit up |

People always ask me questions about the suit that i'm wearing and i want to take the time out to write a blog dedicated to just that. Picking up the perfect suit and dressing it up to a perfection.

First things first. Fit is king, doesn't matter what brand you are wearing , it doesn't matter how much you spend on your suit ,if it doesn't fit , it's a bad suit, i see a lot of guys getting a suit that one size too big and the results of that is that the shoulders of the suit flap over your natural shoulders.

Easy way to check the suit shoulder fit you right ,is to go up against the wall your suit should make contact with wall first , followed by your shoulder ,if there is any bulging of fabric in between that your suit is too big ,if your shoulder hit the wall first before the fabric of the suit ,the suit is too tight, it is important that you able to comfortably cross your arm without tearing the fabrics across your back , moving on down the suit you want to make sure the fit in the stomach area right too, the way you check that is you button the top button of the suit and slide your hand in between that button , if your hand feel too tight in that area ,its possibly your suit is too small or if there is a way too much room in there, your suit likely too big.

The fabric of the jacket should drape the natural contour of your arm without bunching up, being too tight or loose.The length of sleeve also crucial, you want to be comfortable showing at least a quarter to half inch of your shirt below your suit (shown in pic A).This is one of those alteration that need to done by a tailor because anatomically we all are different ,we are not symmetrical ,one arm can be longer than other,it has been debated how long your suit should be and its really there is a simple answer to this ,you want your suit somewhere between your wrist and middle of your thumb but most importantly has to cover your bottom(shown in pic B).

(A)

(B)

So we talked about jackets of the suit now let us talked about the pants, first you want to make sure the waist of the pants is fit you properly, how you find your natural waist is, take three fingers to place in right below your belly button and that is your natural waist ,that's where your suit pants should fit , your suit pants should fit comfortably without the need for belt. In fact ,the best quality suit pants are are made without belt loops ,they made with little hinges and attachment to side to make a small changes in case you gain a pound or two, and go with a flat front pants without pleated. The suit fabrics should naturally drape the contour of your leg without being too loose or snug, now lets talk about the length of the pants , there is some flexibility in the siding how you want the hem of your pants to look , you can go for no break , half break or full break , i think the perfect look fall somewhere between half break and no break at all , because when you go for full break, you get that ugly creasing which doesn't make the suit flatter.



















Now let talked about the details which can really bring your personality to light ,starting from the top to bottom, lets look at the lapel, the three most popular variation of lapel is the notched lapel(classic one) ,The peaked lapel (little bit more formal ,little bit more fleshy), then you have shawl lapel, which is something that you see traditionally in more formal event like the awards show or galas ,but throw all those rules out the window, if you feel one of those lapel matches your personality or you look best ,don't be afraid to try ,give it a go and see if it work with your outfit.

Lets talk about the button of the suit ,we going to talk about single breasted suit only ,leaving a double breasted suit behind. The most important part to remember, do not button the bottom button, i recommend going with two button suit ,its classic it work with all styles ,you can wear it to formal event, you can make less formal by dressing down with jeans .Good quality suit have functioning or working button , believe or not functioning button have a medical history .it used to be called surgeon buttons ,because when surgeon have to run to operating room they will unbutton their sleeve and rolled them up and go to work , its true.

A part of suit that you probably never pay attention to before is the vents, its back side of the suit ,but its equally important as all other details, suit have three options you can go for the vents , you have no vent , single vent and double  vent. I strongly recommend going for double vent because when you sit down , the flap in the middle actually cover your bottom, and it doesn't make you look like fool, the last detail of the suit you can work on is either getting a cuff or no cuff at the bottom of the pants leg , really the choice here is  yours.

Now lets talk about the color and fabric of suit, if you getting your first suit, you should definitely get suit that gonna be multi type purpose , that you can wear for wedding ,events ,work and a navy suit for that fit all the occasions ,if you already have a few suit and you looking to buy more, there is two thing you really should focus on ,your skin tone and the season. If it's winter you need to go to with something heavier like a wool , if its summer , you need to  go for lightly fabrics like cotton , linen or even a very thin fine wool ,when talking about color , for the summer you want bright color that pop and make a statement , when in winter or fall , you want brown toned , navy tone ,dark toned ,its generally look good with the light in that season.

Underneath your suit , i believe there is only two option you really can go for, that is t-shirt or dress shirt .Wearing a t-shirt is a great way to dress down the suit and making it little bit less formal but still looking very well dressed. The type of t-shirt i normally go for is either white or black v-neck t-shirt ,it keeps along suit very crisp ,it doesn't take away from suit but still allowed you to look very well dressed , proper and very sharp .Make sure that the slim fit t-shirt doesn't have  too much of fabrics bulging up in the middle and also its not too long ,you don't want your shirt to be longer than your suit that just make you look messy . Dress shirt , let's not get too complicated here , you want the shirt to fit really wells , snug but not causing any kind of creasing , no pulling on the buttons ,and most importantly you want shirt that long enough so its stay neatly tugged  inside your pants all day , get a semi spread collar , this collar work pretty much in anything ,tie or no tie. Avoid getting the collar that button downed ,that doesn't look good with suit , just go for the classic two button barrel cuff,  no need  for french cuff ,or cuff link right now .Start off with getting quality collection of basic shirts first ,then you can start to explore findings out what work for you , what i think about under shirt , i don't think you need them , get rid of them ,they never look good ,they make your mid section look heavy , some people say that its prevent the wet stain going on the dress shirt ,that doesn't  happen ,in fact they make you more hot and more sweaty ,there is no benefits for under shirts.

Ties, make sure that when you wearing a tie ,it doesn't go pass your belt and doesn't sit to high up on your torso because its gonna make you look bad , also when selecting the color of your tie ,make sure its fit the color of your suit and dress shirt .I also up for tie bar , not only do i think it look great but also keep your tie in same place all day ,without falling to other side.

What its deal with pocket square , i think pocket square great .It allowed you to show more personality, add more color to your wardrobe ,a lot of people think that your pocket square need match your tie or dress shirt perfectly  , but that is not true ,it can be perfect little aside of color you don't expect ,but you can stay with same color your tie ,suit and dresser too ,there are millions way to fold your pocket square while i like to keep it simple as i do with most things ,so i either go for conservative square or four pointed.

Time to figure out what kind of socks to wear, if you wanted to show  more personality ,get some  crazy colored socks ,if you really only should be seeing your socks when you sit , get a fleshy color socks ,for me i prefer to go with super low no socks , also if you are going to wear low socks don't be afraid to go sockless ,especially in summer .you can tell a lot about men by looking at his shoe ,as long as they match the color of your suit and they great quality you will be all set.

Fashion has no boundary,its just really no limit for creativity, this are simply my rules that i think might help you look at your  best .We covered a lot of ground here..so are you ready to get suited up ??